Into the Basque Countryside

Early on Sunday we decamped from Logroño for the two-hour drive to San Sebastián, in the heart of Basque Country. A local road race blocked all the streets leading to our hotel, so our guide met us at a different hotel while Ramón cooled his heels waiting for the race to be over. We said our reluctant farewells to our fantastic guide.

Sandra took us on a walking tour of the hilly city, and we took in the gorgeous views of the angry ocean hurling its waves against the seawall.

Strolling into the old city, we had a lunch of — guess what? Tapas! I don’t think I can ever get tired of eating this way. Small portions, interesting flavors and treatments, creatively presented. Once you have a late lunch of 4-5 tapas, or pintxos, you don’t need food for the rest of the day.

We had one of our favorites, pickled green bean, olive and anchovy, then pulpo (octopus) with smoked paprika, scallops in a creamy sauce without cream, jamón Ibérico, and a large mushroom in a sauce enriched with raw egg.

To top it off, Basque cheesecake!

Tomorrow: cooking class!